Do you want to find your own piece of paradise without breaking the bank? If so then this is the travel guide for you. An island hopping adventure where white sands, crystal clear waters and good food are all part of the package.
"Move, as far as you can, as much as you can. Across the ocean or simply across the river. Walk in someone else's shoes or at least eat their food. Open your mind, get up off the couch and move." A quote by Anthony Bourdain who understood that travel should be so much more than laying among the masses and getting a sun tan. Let's adventure off the beaten path to islands that don't often feature in itineraries of South East Asia. A guide that inspires embracing other cultures, climates and cuisines in a way that allows you to experience life in a truly unique manner whilst at the same time uncovering plenty of Instagramable white sands, blue seas and perfect sunsets. Whether you're going solo or travelling as a family getting around won't break the bank and it couldn't be simpler (see Google maps at the bottom for all locations).
Before we start our island adventure there are a couple of pre-trip formalities which need to be considered:
Duration - Whether you're backpacking or holidaying, the time needed is entirely down to you to decide. I suggest 2-3 weeks start to finish.
Visa's - Check what you need with your local government before you travel.
Vehicle Hire - Apply for an international license with your local post office before travelling.
ATM's - Islands don't have many ATM's, so be sure to bring plenty of currency including American dollars.
Health - See your GP and get vaccinated before you travel. Check out the NaTHNaC website for all countries health precautions and pack a first aid kit, plenty of sun screen, coconut oil (available on most islands, a local trick to keep off sand-flies!) and a deet insect repellent.
Hồ Chí Minh - Vietnam
Start in Ho Chí Minh (Saigon), flights here are frequent and affordable, try Skyscanner for a good deal. It's a cool place, with a delicious food scene and good transport links. Stay near the central and lively Bui Vien street, a great location for exploring and plenty of cheap eating and sleeping options. Try out Lily's Hostel, private rooms are affordable, spacious and quiet. A must try for eating is Ben Thanh Street Food Market, a fun and communal experience with edgy decor and live music, order a bit of everything and share. Dishes to try are BBQ pork belly (delish!) and Banh Knot aka mini savoury pancakes. For more than city life try the HCM cooking class which is set on a beautiful organic farm. Here you will pick all your own ingredients and learn how to make authentic Vietnamese dishes from scratch such as Phở, Nom đu đủ, Bánh Xèo and many more.
Spend 48 hours here max then on to our next destination, Phu Quoc, although if you want to break up the journey then check out the floating markets of Can Tho for a taste of life on the Mekong.
Phú Quốc - Vietnam
To get here book a limousine bus with Vu Linh to Rạch Giá to board the Super Dong (hold the innuendos this is a speed ferry!) to Phú Quoc. The trip takes about 1.5-2 hours and ferry tickets can be purchased en route, just let the Vu Linh office know in advance of the journey. Grab a one way ticket for approx 185k (Vietnamese Dong) as the route back will be to Hà Tiên on the mainland and once you arrive at the port grab a shared mini bus to your accommodation.
Phú Quoc has accommodation for everyone from cheap hostel rooms to luxury resorts. A great affordable option is the Wanderlust Bungalows located in An Thoi, the south of the island. Expect spotless private chalets, comfy beds and extra services such as laundry and motor bike hire. Here you will sleep comfortably but you will require transport to get around, taxis are expensive so my advice is to hire a scooter. For those seeking beach front bungalow try Bamboo cottages, located in the north west of the island. Here you will get a private and lavish experience with love island-esque outdoor bathroom, large bed, free kayaks and romantic candle lit meals on the beach.
With many beaches to choose from here are my three must visits. First is Bai Tam Sao on the south east coast where the sand is white and littered with cool insta-friendly swings and a selection of bars and restaurants to choose from. Second is the secluded castaway stretch of Long Beach along the west coast of the island and third is Rạch Vẹm in the north where you can find large star fish dotted along the seafront and a floating fishing village serving freshly caught seafood with an incredible view looking out to sea. Try Nhà Bè Thu Bao with their succulent steamed crabs and the meaty BBQ chim fish. Their seafood is kept in the nets below the restaurant until ordered so it really doesn't get any fresher! Stay here for 3-7 days to get a true feel of Phú Quoc life.
For more info on Phú Quoc - article coming soon.
Border Crossing - Vietnam into Cambodia
From Phú Quoc head to the ferry port ready for the next destination of Kep, Cambodia. There are a number of ways to cross the border, however, to avoid all unnecessary stress and inflated cost purchase a ticket with a specialist company who will take you from Hà Tiên, directly to Kep. Expect to pay around $25 and purchase tickets 24-48 hours in advance of travel. At the border bring US dollars and ideally a passport photo, the visa should cost around $35 (can be more, depending on how happy the guards are to see you!).
Kep - Cambodia
Arriving in Cambodia you will notice an immediate change in surroundings and culture but thankfully in the seaside town of Kep everything is chilled with less people and more space. Stay at the Birds of Paradise Bungalows where the accommodation suits all budgets. When in Kep there are a few must do's and the first is a day trip to Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay). This is a small island facing the tiny port where you can spend the day relaxing on golden beaches, eating, drinking and maybe even getting a Khmer massage. This will cost around $8 for a return trip and be sure to bring cash as there are no ATM's on the island. The next must try is eating Kep's iconic blue crab in one of the restaurants overlooking the harbour. These little blue crabs are abundant, freshly caught and delicious. For the best sunset and eating experience try the Sailing club and restaurant. Here the food is as good as the picturesque setting with a stylish wooden club house and sea front views. The menu features local and globally inspired dishes from Amok (Cambodia's national curry) to seafood linguini. Watching the sun set whilst sipping a Kep Sling cocktail (or a Cambodian beer!) is the perfect way to end the day. Spend 24-48 hours here then travel onward by bus to our next destination, Koh Ta Kiev via Ream or Otres beach dependant on season (outskirts of Sihanoukville). Pro tip; get in and out of Sihanoukville ASAP! Unless you like rubble, dust, half built casino's and trucks occupying unpaved roads.
To break the journey up try stopping off at Kampot - article coming soon.
Koh Ta Kiev - Cambodia
Do you remember Leonardo DiCaprio's hit film The Beach? Well, visiting Koh Ta Kiev is a pretty close realisation of that idyllic island life untouched by mass tourism. This place will take you off grid with all but a handful of brilliantly basic accommodations. Expect to swing in a hammock, get invigorated with a cold bucket shower, avoid the crowds on often empty beaches and zone out the disturbances with limited access to electricity and WiFi!
To party and relax stay at Last Point Resort. The guys who run it are fun, friendly and will keep you busy with beach volleyball, drinking games or their legendary night parties. Other resorts include the upmarket Kactus, the chilled Ten 103 or the rustic Crusoe Camp. A must try activity is hiking to elephant rock on the north of the island whilst frequenting each resorts bars along the way. Ten 103 has a chilled bar facing the sea, perfect for sitting back and watching the world go by. For the best sunset head to Kactus and afterwards dine in their tree-house restaurant for an elegant dinner. The best sun bathing is at Crusoe with its golden beach, calm waters and often limited people.
The island isn't likely to stay this way for long as the Cambodian government have sold land rights to a Chinese development company who plan to build a large resort so get here quick! The next stop? Transfer back to the rubble city of Sihanoukville and head via the ferry port to the island of Koh Rong. Tickets can be purchased at the port for $25 return and takes approximately 1 hour on the high speed ferry.
Koh Rong - Cambodia
This really is a living paradise, however, to really experience this island you have to be prepared to explore either by boat taxi which can be expensive or by scooter for the more adventurous. If you do choose to explore by scooter make sure you have previous off road experience as the roads here are more like gravelly, rocky paths.
The best beaches are Coconut Bay and Sok San, both make great day trips with postcard perfect scenery, blue seas and white sand but have limited options for food and drink. Koh Toch beach has the main ferry port and is ideal for those who want a mix of places to stay, eat and party at affordable prices. Stay at the High Land Bungalow resort where the owners are helpful, the rooms are clean, comfortable and far enough away from the town to avoid noise. To eat like a true islander dine at the super cheap night BBQ's such as White Rose where for less than the price of a McDonald's Big Mac you will get freshly cooked whole fish or steak etc. with salad, bread and a drink. For impressive views head to the Sky Bar, for sunsets and 2-for-1 cocktails try the White Beach Bungalow Bar and for a guilty snack the pizza slice and beer combo at Buffalo's bar is hard to resist! The best sunset is at Sok San beach but leave before dark as there are no lights on the gravelly paths. For Ibiza vibes 'til sunrise party at the infamous Police beach with a large stage, funky decor and upbeat music, you can't Koh Rong!
Spend at least 3-4 days here then venture to Koh Rong Sanloem, an easy wooden boat ride away for approximately $10.
Koh Rong Sanloem - Cambodia
Koh Rong Sanloem, a utopia of pure beauty, arriving to a bay nestled within lush tropical rainforest on an unspoiled island with white sand and crystal clear water, everything you want from an island get away. Saracen Bay is the place to stay and it's as good as any Maldivian beach but without the air of exclusivity and sell your kidney costs! To get great value and a good nights sleep stay at Easy Glamp. This is an eco-friendly resort embracing nature with simplistic and comfy rooms that are finished with wooden beams and handmade decorations. The main communal bar area is run by passionate people and located on one of the best bits of the bay, think lazy hammocks, cool music and positive vibes.
One of the best things to do is a self made leisurely bar crawl starting in the south of the bay at Easy Glamp that stops at whichever resort is offering happy hour, finishing north of the bay at the Big Easy Hostel. For a tropical breakfast try Easy Glamp's healthy homemade muesli with kefir and papaya jam. For lunch or dinner try Happy Place as they offer everything from conventional pizza's to pasta and a cracking beach BBQ that's good quality and great value. The Big Easy is also a good eat with wings, burgers and other naughty dishes with live music and occasional pub quizzes. And if you want to venture further than the beach or the bar then try one of the mega value boat trips available for around $10 for a full day. You can snorkel the beautiful reefs, try a spot of line fishing, stop at the northern Mai Bay and swim at night with luminous plankton. For me, this is the best island on the journey so how much time you spend here is up to you.
Border Crossing Cambodia - Thailand
After Koh Rong Sanloem take a boat back to Sihanoukville where you will buy tickets (approx $25) for a bus (Virak Bhuntham) to cross the border at Trat and continue to Koh Chang, Thailand. When you arrive at the border get a departure stamp from Cambodian immigration then walk about 800 meters to the Thai immigration for approval for entry. After crossing the buses will change to a minivan. At Trat buy a taxi ticket to cross (by a boat) to your destination on Koh Chang (approx 9-11$). Expect a full day of travelling so be sure to get to an early departure.
Koh Chang - Thailand
Koh Chang is the gateway to the north east Thai islands, it has all the obligatory island musts i.e. beaches and sunsets as well as package holiday makers. To party and live cheaply try the lively Lonely Beach, staying at the Sunflower Bungalows for a central location and astounding affordability near to the must eat Sleepy Owl cafe with fantastic pancakes and coffee. For stylish sun seekers head to Klong Prao, the best beach on the island and home to the Flora Talay resort, stay here for a more lavish experience or just drop by for a spot of lunch and a stroll along the golden stretch of coast line. And for beach bum hipsters there's southern Klong Koi beach with its laid back atmosphere and near by Rasta cafes and Bang Bao Pier.
If beach life does become tedious (really!?) there are other activities to consider such as hiking the national park or exploring the waterfalls as well as getting up close and personal with an elephant by supporting one of the sanctuaries. I wouldn't spend more than a couple of days here as the real gems await. Head to Bang Bao pier and take a boat to Koh Mak which will take approximately one hour and cost around $11 to get there.
Koh Mak - Thailand
Step off the boat onto a wooden pier surrounded by a washed turquoise sea that leads to an almost uninhabited beach with nothing but palm trees and a handful of beach bars on arrival. There are a few resorts but unlike Koh Chang there are no package holiday makers here as mass tourism hasn't yet reached the island of Koh Mak.
Stay at Joe's Corner, rooms are modern featuring comfy beds and hot showers and best of all it is only 50 meters away from Ao Kao beach, a secluded stretch of sand great for sunset drinks. Try the roof terraced cloud bar or the surfer style Baan Koh Mak for good drinks. For lunch with a view go to the Islanda Resort for some classical Thai food done well. Located at the top of the hill overlooking Ao Soun Yai beach admire the dramatic coast line in all its glory whilst tucking into a delicious and fragrant Panang curry or a Pad Thai! Not satisfied? Then try the local street vendor selling coconut ice cream for THB20. Dinner can be kept local at the family run Food Art Hut who offer a selection of Thai and Western dishes. The food here is cooked with love and made fresh to order. The standout dish is the Tom Kha coconut curry which isn't spicy like some Thai dishes but mild, fragrant and full of flavour.
You must spend a day at Ao Soun Yai beach, a great spot for snorkelling and sun bathing with a selection of beach bars and rope swings lining this golden stretch. A good beach to get completely lost is Ao Tao Khai. To get here ride off road through coconut fields and rubber plantations and discover this old turtle breeding ground that feels so remote it is like it's located at the end of the world. Once you have had your fill of sunbathing, eating, drinking and sunsets book a Boonsiri boat ticket and head to Ao Nid pier in the south of the island to board a catamaran to our final stop of Koh Kut (also spelt Koh Kood).
Koh Kut - Thailand
Saving the best until last I give you Koh Kut. Arriving by boat into the local fishing port of Ao Salad you will be met by a large Buddha statue peeping over a tree line and the hustle and bustle of tuk tuk drivers. Stay at the Mata Guest House a cosy and affordable piece of heaven nestled in the heart of the mangroves. The rooms are spacious, clean and it is a good location for exploring. For a beach front affair try The Beach Natural Resort or The Sea Resort at Bang Bao (my favourite beach) but be prepared to pay a premium for the privilege.
The Mermaid Fashion Cafe is a must try for breakfast. Order a smooth cappuccino and pick one of their delicious smoothie bowls which really are to die for. Lashings of creamy smoothie base, fresh fruit and an array of crunchy super-food toppings to kick off your day. The Ao Yai fishing village in the south east is the place for lunch, eat at Chonthicha Seafood where the authentic Thai flavours made with freshly caught seafood are as good as the view. The must order is the Red Thai tray bake made from a plethora of seafood coated in a spicy and piquant red curry paste finished with fresh pieces of corn-cob and green peppercorns. It's finger-licking good and best washed down with a sweet and ice cold coconut. If you want to skip lunch and grab a spot of afternoon tea head to the View Point cafe so called for it's prime sun down location. Nestled away in a sea mangrove get greedy with the infamous banana or fudge cake and homemade coconut ice cream. For dinner, choose your catch at the Fishermans Hut where you can pick from a wide section of freshly caught fish ranging from Cobia to Barracudas and watch as they are barbecued to perfection.
Now let's talk beaches. A must visit is the stunning Bang Bao, ideal for catching rays and snorkelling in the crystal clear waters. Venture to the southernmost pier and swim to the coral reef with larger fish or by the middle pier there’s a rocky area housing sting rays, puffer fish and more. If you didn’t bring a snorkel go to BB Divers and rent one. Other beaches worth mentioning are the touristy Klong Chao or any south of Bang Bao such as the remote and scenic Rim Lay beach cafe.
After finding paradise it's time to head home via the Boonsiri catamaran and bus service to Bangkok where we catch a flight home or to your next destination.
All destinations listed in the google map below.
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