Ah, Koh Tao—an island that, much like its famous diving spots, is full of depth. Sure, you might’ve heard the media sensationally dubbing it “Murder Island”—dark headlines and all that drama.
I’ll admit, I almost skipped it and stayed cozy on Koh Phangan, but my curiosity (and sheer stubbornness) brought me here. And thank God for that, because Koh Tao is anything but sinister. What I found instead was an island filled with warm crystal waters, jaw-dropping sunsets, and, oh, some of the best food I’ve had in all of Thailand.
Let’s get one thing clear: the only thing that’ll kill you on this island is the food coma from eating too much grilled seafood and Pad Thai. Now, let me show you why Koh Tao is so much more than what the tabloids would have you believe.
Getting to Koh Tao: The Journey to Paradise
So, how do you get to this slice of heaven? The only way to reach Koh Tao is by boat. You can hop on a ferry from Chumphon or Surat Thani on the mainland or from the nearby islands like Koh Samui or Koh Phangan. The main ferry operators—Lomprayah, Seatran, and Songserm—all offer reasonably comfy trips. For the love of God, don’t get ripped off by the hotel concierge; book your ticket directly at the port offices or online to save a few bucks.
The ferry ride is around two hours from the mainland, or a bit shorter from the other islands. Pro tip: pack water, snacks, and download a movie to survive the ride. Oh, and maybe stash a rain jacket somewhere handy—Thai rain showers love to crash the party when you least expect it, and not all boats are as “watertight” as you’d hope.
You’ll get dropped off at Sairee, Koh Tao’s main town. This is where everything kicks off—beach bars, diving schools, and overpriced taxis. Unless you want to hemorrhage cash on a short trip, consider renting a scooter (around £4 a day) to get around. But be warned: Koh Tao’s roads can be a wild ride—hilly, a little treacherous, and in some places, not much better than a glorified dirt track. If you're a newbie on a bike, taxis can be your backup plan, but trust me, it's gonna cost you.
Two Main Hubs: Sairee and Chalok
There are two main areas that serve as the lifeblood of Koh Tao—Sairee Beach and Chalok Bay. Each has its own distinct vibe, its own pulse, and its own way of drawing you in. These two hubs are where most travelers stay and play, where the island’s rhythm truly comes to life. Sure, there are more remote corners of Koh Tao, hidden beaches and secluded spots where you can feel completely off the grid—but Sairee and Chalok are where it all begins.
Sairee is the beating heart of Koh Tao. This is where the action is—bars, dive schools, beach volleyball, and plenty of places to kick back with a cold beer and watch the sunset. And the sunsets here? They’re the kind that stop you in your tracks—fiery reds and purples melting into the horizon, mirrored perfectly by the still water. It’s like the island’s giving you a little nod, saying, “See? You made the right choice.”
The beach is wide, welcoming, and perfect for lazy afternoons. As you sip on a cold Singha, you can feel the hum of life all around you. It’s not chaotic like some tourist hotspots—there’s a rhythm here, a slow, easy pace that pulls you in and refuses to let you go.
But if you’re after something a little more laid-back, Chalok Bay is where you go when you want to turn down the volume and let the island’s more relaxed side show itself. It’s quieter here, the beaches are a bit more secluded, and the vibe is pure, unadulterated chill. It is still well equipped with bars, hotels and dive shops but on a smaller scale.
Both locations unfold at their own pace. The mornings are slow, the afternoons are long, and when the sun finally dips below the horizon, you find yourself barefoot in the sand, a cold drink in hand, feeling that you’ve found something real—something that can’t be bought, faked, or replicated anywhere else.
And the food? Koh Tao doesn’t disappoint.
What to Eat in Koh Tao: from street eats to fine dining
When it comes to eating in Koh Tao, you’re spoiled for choice, no matter your budget or cravings. For a quick, delicious meal, 995 Duck Noodles in Sairee is the go-to spot for a steaming bowl of duck noodle soup that'll warm your soul. If you're in the mood for something beachfront, head to Seashell Restaurant, where you can enjoy spicy Som Tam Gai with your toes in the sand, or grab some mouthwatering BBQ at The Cottage for a laid-back, smoky feast. Down in Chalok Bay, Big Bites serves everything from hearty smoothie bowls to satisfying wraps and indulgent cheesecake, while Yang Restaurant offers a killer Pad See Ew, and P'Oys Place dishes out unbeatable Massaman curry and Khao Soi for those craving bold, traditional Thai flavors. If you’re after a fun, lively spot for grilled seafood, cocktails, and music, Factory Café Koh Tao has a cool, laid-back vibe perfect for groups or a lively evening out. For something more refined, The Gallery elevates Thai cuisine with dishes like soft shell crab curry served in a chic, gallery-like setting. And let’s not forget the old man’s Pad Thai outside 7/11 in Sairee, for less than a Nero coffee, offering a taste of Thailand’s street food magic. Whether you’re on a backpacker budget or looking for something a bit more upscale, there’s something for every taste. For a deeper dive into Koh Tao’s best eats, check out my Koh Tao taste post where I break down each spot and more in mouth-watering detail!
What to Do on Koh Tao: A Day in Paradise
Koh Tao may be small, but it’s packed with activities that’ll make your stay unforgettable, whether you’re a thrill-seeker, a beach bum, or just someone who loves to relax with a cold drink in hand. Start your adventure at John Suan Viewpoint, one of the island’s most stunning spots for a panoramic view—perfect for sunrise or sunset. Keep in mind, some viewpoints and beaches like Ao Leuk or Nang Yuan Island charge a small fee to enter, but it’s well worth the price for the crystal-clear waters and stunning landscapes. For snorkeling and diving, you can’t go wrong with Tanote Bay or the legendary Chumphon Pinnacle, where you might even swim alongside majestic whale sharks, a once-in-a-lifetime experience for divers.
After a day in the water, grab a cold beer at High Bar in Chalok, perched in the trees with a view as good as the drinks. If you’re craving some adrenaline, why not check out one of the local Muay Thai gyms? Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned fighter, training in Thailand's national sport is a unique way to connect with the culture while breaking a sweat. Of course, no day is complete without chilling at Sairee Beach—grab a fresh coconut, kick back, and watch as the sky explodes in colors during sunset.
For self-care, head to Sairee Road, where massage parlors and beauty treatments are plentiful and affordable, offering the perfect way to unwind after a day of adventure. If you're feeling generous, stop by the Koh Tao Animal Clinic, where you can volunteer or donate to help care for the island’s stray dogs and cats. Whether you're diving with whale sharks, hiking to jaw-dropping viewpoints, practicing your Muay Thai skills, or simply unwinding on the beach, Koh Tao offers an unforgettable mix of adventure and relaxation.
Where to stay: something for everyone of all budgets
Koh Tao may be small, but it offers a wide range of accommodation options, from budget-friendly beach huts to more luxurious retreats, depending on your preference and budget. If you want to be in the thick of it, opt for Sairee Beach. It's the main hub of the island, home to dive schools, restaurants, bars, and an epic beachfront for watching those famous sunsets. For something budget-friendly, try Life Koh Tao Resort, which offers clean, comfy rooms and stunning sea views for around £12-16 a night, including breakfast. You get the perfect mix of peaceful vibes and proximity to the heart of Sairee. And, if you’re lucky, you might even snag a room with a sunset view.
If you're looking for something a little quieter but still close to the action, Chalok Bay is your spot. It's more laid-back than Sairee but has its own charm, with cozy accommodations like Koh Tao Tropicana Resort that provide a beachfront experience with a slower pace. Chalok Bay is perfect for those who prefer chill beach vibes without the late-night party scene.
For travelers wanting a more secluded, off-the-grid experience, check out Tanote Bay. The accommodations here, like Family Tanote Bay Resort, are more rustic but offer stunning ocean views and as previously pointed out... immediate access to some of the best snorkeling on the island.
For big budgets and a bit of luxury during your stay on Koh Tao, Jamahkiri Resort & Spa is the perfect choice. Perched on a cliff overlooking the serene waters of Thian Og Bay, this resort offers a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle.Whether you’re after beachfront relaxation, diving convenience, or secluded nature, Koh Tao has something for every type of traveler, all within arm’s reach of its jaw-dropping natural beauty.
Why you should visit; Koh Tao is what you make it
Koh Tao is more than an island—it’s a feeling. There’s a connection here, a pulse that runs beneath the surface. Maybe it’s the sunsets that take your breath away, or the way the warm water seems to soothe every stress in your body. Maybe it’s the people—locals who greet you with a smile, eager to share their island with you. Or maybe it’s the food—meals that linger in your memory long after the plates are cleared.
This island has a way of giving you more than you expect. It’s not just about the beaches or the diving or the sun—it’s about the moments. The laughter shared over a bowl of noodles, the quiet joy of watching the sun dip below the horizon, the feeling of salt on your skin and sand between your toes.
My version of Koh Tao was waking up to paradise every day, feeling like a dream I didn’t want to end. The mornings were slow and serene, with the sun gently rising over the sea as I enjoyed a simple, delicious breakfast—usually cooked fresh with local ingredients. My days were filled with adventure, from diving into clear waters and connecting with the incredible marine life, to chatting with fellow travelers, divers and locals, all sharing a deep appreciation for the island’s beauty. I’d explore the quieter, hidden spots of the island, feeling the wind in my hair as I rode my motorbike, grabbing a fresh coconut on the Sairee strip, and indulging in the endless array of street food, markets, and restaurants that made every meal an experience. Some days, I’d stop by the Koh Tao Animal Clinic, where I had the chance to rescue and care for puppies, which was as fulfilling as it was heartwarming. Living on the island during the pandemic gave me the rare gift of freedom, allowing me to experience Koh Tao at its most peaceful—unhurried, untouched, and alive with nature. It was a time of pure connection with the land, the people, and the food, a time where I felt more free and alive than I ever had before. Koh Tao you gave me memories I’ll carry with me forever. It’s a place that becomes a part of you, and once you’ve experienced it, you’ll understand why people keep coming back.
So, whether you're here for the food, the sunsets, or the adventure, let Koh Tao surprise you. Forget the headlines—this island’s true story is told in the warmth of its waters, the vibrancy of its food, and the beauty of its people and its streets dogs.
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