Known as "little Tibet", and home to the Dali Lama, here's a guide to a place of unimaginable beauty. A melting pot of cultures, spirituality and culinary creations.
I discovered the Himalayan mountains north of Dehli through childhood tales told by my Uncle Pip who would venture here yearly for as long as I can remember. He would describe the mountains as not only holding scenic beauty but a place where a community lived in peace with people who didn't have much in possessions but were rich in kindness and hospitality. In March 2020 I finally made it here and it was everything my uncle described. Sadly my uncle passed away in 2012 in India but during my time here I remembered all of the stories I was told as a child and I felt like I was connected with these lands through him.
Dharamshala truly is magnificent, not just because of the personal connection it holds for me, but because of the cultures, climate and culinary diversity that resides here. There is a quote by Muriel Strode, "I will not follow where the path may lead, but go where there is no path, and I will leave a trail" and this describes the purpose of this article. Here is a guide of the best places to eat, stay and visit.
“I will not follow where the path may lead, but go where there is no path, and I will leave a trail.”- Muriel Strode
There are a number of ways to reach to Dharamshala, I chose to fly from Dehli as this was the most convenient option for me that didn't break the bank, however, other cheaper transport is available such as by bus. Entering the mountains by a small propeller plane is an experience in itself due to the views you will receive on arrival. Imagine large snow capped mountains peaking through clouds which are like no other grandeur you have ever encountered.
I would recommend staying in McLeodganj as not only is this the home of the Dalai Lama but also a halfway house for those #views, restaurants and attractions. It is also suitable for all budgets and needs with a range of accommodation options available, from pure luxury at the Hyatt Regency Hotel to backpacker hostels and home stays.
Photos; Dharamshala Airport and Pine Spring Homestay Room View
I chose to stay at the Pine Springs home stay as it was incredibly good value, simple and clean with an amazing room view from the balcony (see photo above) as well as a great location with welcoming and kind hosts. One thing to note is many places don't have heating as well as intermittent hot water in the mountains so it is well worth hiring an electric heater in colder seasons.
For a small town this has a huge contrast of cuisines and delectable eats, from Indian to Tibetan to Italian and more. So with so much on offer where do you go?
For Indian, a must dine is family run restaurant Ashoka with simple decor and chequered table cloths it is the Indian food that really shines here. There is an extensive menu offering an infusion of cuisines but the classic Indian dishes are the essential eats. It would be sinful not to try the Paneer Pasanda, made with stuffed paneer filled with dried fruit and nut that is served in a velvety sauce, or the Shahi Paneer with its aromatic and sweet flavours hosting delicate pieces of charred paneer in a rich and creamy sauce that is elegantly topped with shaved almonds, cashews and golden raisins. For meat lovers Butter Chicken is the real deal with succulent and tender chicken pieces submerged in a sauce of buttery goodness. And sides such as the humble roti or stuffed naans cannot be forgotten as they make the perfect sauce dippers and fillers. If it is a sugar fix you are after then opt for the beautifully presented rice pudding, this sweet treat will keep you coming back for more. This dish is fruit and nut galore which gives it an extra dimension, coated in luxuriously sweet and milky sauce. All dishes are delicious and reasonably priced for the quality.
Photos of Ashoka dishes Shahi Paneer and Butter Chicken
If you want to mix things up try Tibetan food, it defines the term "ugly delicious" with its rich and hearty dishes which vary in flavour from mild to hot. In McLeodganj it is as authentic as it comes, home to the Dalai Lama and many Tibetan refugees it's only natural that some of the best Tibetan food in the world can be found here. There are many places to try the cuisine, such as the market for momos (filled steamed dumplings) or infusion places such as Mcllo restaurant for Chow Chow (fried noodles) and my personal favourite Hotel Tibet for filling noodle soups and Tibetan thali. Ordering the thali is the best way to sample Tibetan dishes, comprised of small plates and bowls including soft Tingmos (steamed bread), hearty Phingsha (mutton or vegetable noodle soup), hot and spicy Shapta (sliced mutton, sliced peppers and onions with aromatics), delicious Momo's (steamed vegetable or lamb dumplings), steamed rice and a healthy side of salad. And why not wash it down with the speciality of buttered tea that's definitely an acquired taste. All of this is great value with huge portion sizes.
Photos of Hotel Tibet thali
Now if you like your meal with a view then try Shiva Cafe. Located at the top of a waterfall in nearby Dharamkot, Bagsu, which is an approximately thirty minute walk from McLeodganj. On route expect to encounter anything from street art, yak's and goats, monkey's and friendly mountain dogs, not to mention the breathtaking views. The hike starts at approx 2500ft above sea level along a stony path that leads to the cafe which overlooks the waterfall. The menu is extensive offering classical Indian and Chinese dishes to fantastic pizzas and milkshakes. Venturing here is a great way to discover the area, see terrific landscapes and why not treat yourself with a Masala chai at the top.
Photos of views and food at the Shiva cafe
If you just want the coffee (and cake) without the hike then try the Woeser cafe, located in the streets of McLeodganj. Here you can get seriously scrumptious home bakes and cakes such as the walnut tart with its sweet and sticky texture, or the vegan chocolate balls with a gooey centre alongside a large and frothy cappuccino! Other options include the divine carrot and chocolate cakes, crunchy cookies and medicinal rhododendron and basil herbal tea. The cakes are so tremendous here that they bake the Dalai Lama's annual birthday cake! Another great spot for breakfast is Jimmy's Cafe and Bakery. Located in the main square, be sure to try coffee and the English breakfast with homemade beans (delicious Indian style!) and bread. Portions here are large and tasty!
Photo of the cakes and coffee at Woeser Cafe and breakfast at Jimmy's in McLeodganj
A great activity is a hike to Triund peak, situated approx 3000 ft above sea level. This is an incredible adventure with fantastic views, however, preparation is key. Start early (7am-10am) for good weather, pack lots of water and take a good pair of walking boots as the walk is safe (most of the way) but on snowy days it is very slippy. Also on occasions the police will man the entry point only permitting entry with a guide for this very reason. Do not fear, guides hang out near the entrance but do not pay more than 1000 rupees for the entire trip. There are a number of cafes along the way where you can sit back, relax and enjoy the panorama of what lies beneath.
Photo taken during Triund hike
If hiking isn't your thing then there's the cultural Dalai Lama temple and museum. Where you can learn and support the peaceful culture of the Tibetan people and understand their struggles from the horrific and unlawful Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1949 that is still ongoing to this day. Tibetan refugees still flee to Dharamshala with only Buddhism in their heart and the clothes on their back in protest and fear for their life due to the terrible human right violations they still receive under Chinese rule. Here you will feel a surge of injustice and compassion and if you are organised in advance you can even view a public speech from the wise and wonderful Dalai Lama.
Photo of Tibetan Monk
Other popular activities include shopping the local markets for artisan crafts such as woollen shawls, handmade jewellery or handcrafted wooden art. There is also plenty of yoga and spiritual retreats, the worlds most scenic cricket ground, for adrenaline junkies you can para-glide from the side of a mountain or arrange a multiple day hike in the surrounding Himalayan areas. Not to mention the other restaurants and cafes which didn't make the edit.
In summary its a unique part of the country seemly missing out on most itineraries when touring India, the unique and spiritual area of Dharamshala, for me is a must visit. So make sure this is on your travel list.
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Video of Dharamshala
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